My
rucksack was packed tight and a suitcase hung by me closely. My heart was
beating loudly and so did my i pod. I was nervous. I never travelled alone
before, that too 1,298 miles. The same Mangalore international airport looked
interesting and Muscat was, to be precise, 9 hours 35 minutes away. I boarded the
3:10 pm Jet airways 9W 432 to Mumbai and waited for 5 hours 20 minutes in Mumbai
to board my 10:10 pm flight to the beautiful city of Muscat.
Scared. Anxious.
Happy. Exuberant.
I was on
my own for the next ten days in the heavenly land of Oman. My itinerary was
well planned, hotel bookings were on time and my friend’s car was waiting with a
driver at the airport.
Thanks
to the one and half-hours’ time difference; I landed in Muscat the same day, only to catch some late night sleep. Next day was going to be different. I knew
it, and I slept peacefully.
My
itinerary was categorized based on the different places to visit, and then
different activities to be done, and finally, to visit all the different
variety of places including sea, desert, caves, valleys, forts and so on.
Day 1: Muscat
Muscat
means “Anchorage” and it is an anchor between the Persian Gulf and Indian
Ocean. Muscat is the capital city of Oman and known as Oman’s jewel. A true amalgamation of ancient cultural heritage with modern styles and contemporary
architecture. Like it is said, be rooted but spread your branches. The roads
were wide and flanked by green lawns and trees on either side.
Muscat is known
for Omani architectural mosques, forts, castles, towers, mountains, golden
beaches and definitely, sand dunes. I wanted
to see all of them, at least one in each category.
Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque:
The
first word came out of my mouth was “wow”. Its breath taking Islamic
architecture from across the world and the grand interiors were beyond the
vocabulary of any man. My eyes glued to every single detail and mind repeatedly
humming, wow, wow and wow. It is so huge that it can accommodate about 6,500
worshippers in the main prayer hall (musalla) and 8,000 worshippers in the
outer paved ground. Interestingly, the hand woven carpet in the prayer hall
weighs about 21 tons and is the second largest in the world. And, also the
chandelier above the prayer hall!
Omanta scuba diving academy:
With the
fear of water, I avoided any diving possible. But this trip was to explore
myself. Hence, next stop was Omanta. Omanta uses Daymaniyat islands as the
primary dive sites. The pristine clear water with numerous aquatic lives was
like reliving life all over again.
So
after, the divinely experience I decided to hit the beach nearby.
Qurum beach:
Being
born in the coastal I wasn't too enthusiastic about visiting a beach. Yet, I
had to tick mark all the categories in my itinerary. I watched the sun set and
relaxed on shore, listening to the waves and feeling happy about my day in
Muscat.
Day 2: Muscat
Muttrah Corniche:
I took
an early morning stroll along the sea front from the fish souk to Riam Park.
The lights glittered in the sea water and mountains stood right on my head. The
scent of history was reverberating throughout the Corniche. Lots of shopping
can also be done along the Corniche; however, I skipped that part. The
fishermen were carrying their catches to sell. The entire view around the
Corniche was the best of Muscat. Across the road from the fish soju is the
Marina hotel which has a coffee shop on the top floor. I sipped my morning
coffee after an invigorating walk.
Jalali and Mirani forts:
The city of Muscat can be viewed through Fort
Al Mirani and fort Al Jalali. Both are forts in the harbor of the city. Both
being very close to each other, I quickly visited these two forts and looked at
the beautiful city of Oman. The blue water and the stone walls signified the
historic importance of these forts. After the capture of Muscat in 1552, the
ottoman forces built Al Mirani fort, whereas Al Jalali fort was built by the
Portuguese to protect the harbor from Ottoman forces in 1580's after Muscat had
twice been sacked by them.
After
visiting old Muscat, I re-entered the city of Muscat to get a taste of some
contemporary entertainment.
Royal Opera House:
Royal
opera house reflects contemporary Omani architecture and has seating
arrangement of about 1,100 people. Yes, it is largely built. With great
architecture and beautiful interiors, the entire opera house had a different
aura. Finally, when the music began I was not only transposed to a different
world but also, experienced transcendence. It did feel spiritual as if I was
listening to god. The performing artists were exceptional and combining with
high quality acoustics made them only better.
My final
visit in Muscat was Al Alam Royal Palace.
Al Alam Royal Palace:
The
entry was restricted but the structure looked like a bride in the evening. The
guards lowered the flags around sunset. I took lots of photographs and walked
to the water towards west to capture the palace and fort in the background.
After my
two days visit in Muscat, I only wondered how these people build these
monuments so beautifully and how do they maintain it so well. By the end, I
couldn't decide which place I had liked the most. Everything was painstakingly
beautiful.
Day 3: Nizwa
Nizwa is
surrounded by mountains on all sides. The
conservative city of Nizwa adds a lot to the Islamic culture. It is one of the
oldest cities in Oman and was once a center for trade, education, religion and
art. Nizwa is also a center for date growing and it is also famous for donkey
market!!!
Nizwa fort:
Nizwa
fort was built around 1650 and is considered to be the largest fortification in
Oman. Nizwa fort speaks highly of Oman customs and trade. From the top, a
breath taking view of Nizwa with the Friday mosque in the foreground is
visible. Inside the fort there are small rooms and a prison and a date store.
On the upper floor rooms are the Imam's living quarters.
Nizma Souq:
Nizwa
Souq is known for its distinguished handicrafts and souvenirs which are not
found elsewhere. Rich in its ancient culture, the sand coloured buildings crowded the market area. There were produce stalls, butchers, date shops,
hardware stores, jewelry, pottery, gun shops mainly for hunting and also, khanjars.. But one thing
came as a surprise that there were no women in the market apart from tourists.
According to their tradition, women are supposed to cook and take care of
children. While men do the shopping including the vegetables. So these men for
sure know the “atta ka bhav” (price of wheat flour) unlike my husband!!!
Falaj:
Aflaj (plural) is
underground aqueduct which ensures water supply for large scale agriculture in
the dry land environment. Nizwa is built around a Falaj which is in use even
till date. The source of Falaj is groundwater found in subsoil or valleys.
Day 4: Bahla
The next
day, we drove towards Bahla. Driver was speeding up via route 21 and it took 40
minutes to reach one more culturally inherit land. Bahla is famous for its fort
and pottery making.
Bahla fort:
This is
situated at the foot of the Jebel Akhdar highlands in Oman. The old Bahla fort with
its 12 km (seven miles) wall is the oldest fort in Oman and third largest
wall in the world. The area rounded by the wall is called Oasis. However, the
mud walls built on stone foundations are collapsing and so, UNESCO has taken
special measures in preventing world’s one of the oldest heritage.
Pottery making factory:
If you
want to shop for potteries then Bahla is your destination. It feels the
potteries are fresh from oven. These people use the traditional pottery making
methods using furnaces and chimneys.
Finally,
I visited Jabreen castle which is few miles away from Bahla.
Jabreen castle:
This was
built in 1670 for Imam Bil'arab when he switched the capital from Nizwa to
Jabrin. He is buried here in one of the rooms on the ground floor. The rooms
were cooler as it was designed to channel cool air around Imam’s living area.
There are several rooms in Jabreen castle. Like the Nizwa fort even Jabreen
castle has a prison and a date store. Adding on, there is a great view of the
surrounding date plantations from the battlements on the top.
I
retired early that day as I was extremely tired and sleep took over me
instantly.
Day 5: Wahiba Sands
Wahiba
Sands also known as Sharqiya Sands is a region of desert in Oman. The region is
named for the Wahiba tribe. I had dedicated my day 5 completely to Wahiba Sands
to enjoy every single bit of sand dunes and amazing stunts and stay there over
night. The camp which was booked for me looked decent, basic and just suitable
for my stay. Almost 40 kms inside a desert was itself worth an experience. I
often complained about not seeing a desert and there I was amid the ocean of
sands. Sea is about 140 kms away from Wahiba sands. There was vegetation on the
desert which was least expected out of me. Huge golden sand dunes were spread
across and an SUV was waiting for me to take on a ride. I was extremely excited
like a small kid, jumping around. But once the ride started I started screaming
too. It was literally crazy and by that, I mean everyone must do it. The driver
seemed very experienced and SUV was floating in sand at an angle of 70 degrees.
I had goose bumps!!!
After the thrilling
ride, I walked around the desert. My next attempt was camel ride. Now I was
scared. I just didn't want to do it. Yet, forced myself in to experiencing
something new and to my surprise, I thoroughly enjoyed it. It was a rock and
roll ride for me but I kept communicating with the camel to keep me safe.
Finally, by the end of the day I started missing my husband looking at other
couples. The place looked enchanting, with sands slightly faded in colour,
with lights twinkling, moonlight spreading the romantic aura in the desert.
I
ate my dinner alone, thinking about my husband but I had five more days to
explore. So, sleep was indeed my best friend.
Day 6: Jebel Akhdar
Jebel
Akhdar is at the heart of the Al Hajar Mountain range. Jebel Akhdar means the
green mountain. As the climate is moist (though it is mostly desert) shrubs and
trees are grown there and also, terrace farming is supported. Hence, it is
called as “the green mountain”. Pomegranate, Apricot, Peach and Walnut are
grown there and it is also famous for rose water extraction. “Jebel Shams” is around 3,000 metres above sea
level and it is not only the highest point in Jebel Akhdar but also in Oman.
When I
reached the foot of Jebel Akhdar 4X4 was waiting for me along with company. Two
of my friends from Muscat had decided to join me to escape from the hot weather.
The sides of the mountains were carved for terrace farming and the winding
roads led us to the top of the mountain. It took us almost four hours to reach
the top. We passed several villages, plantations and farms. We stopped at
several points and clicked numerous pictures and walked till our legs were
tired. The best part of Jebel Akhdar is its cool and fresh breeze. When the
summer was relentlessly torturing me throughout the journey, Jebel Akhdar felt
like oasis in the desert. Hence, I wanted to stay there as long as I could. The
views were extremely serene and beautiful from Diana’s point.
Finally,
we decided to walk towards Jebel Shams. The route comprises of slopes and
summits and when we thought the road ended it lead us to another slope and thus
walking ended only when we reached the mountain top. The major attraction of
Jebel Shams is its rocky promontories and steep gorges. There is also a large
pool of water called “Wadi Al Nakhr”.
Falcon’s view made our eyes relax with the stunning panorama of the
landscapes. It was worth the sight.
We were
exhausted and decided to rest for the rest of the evening enjoying the cool
weather, eating our packed food and chit chatting. The day ended on a happy and
less lonely note!!!
Day 7 to
10: Salalah:
People
had informed me Oman trip would be incomplete without Salalah. So
once again on my own with a loyal driver I started my journey towards the
beautiful Greenland of Salalah.
Day 7:
Though
flights are available from Muscat, I decided to take a road trip from Nizwa
(where I had stayed) to Salalah covering 882 kms and spending an entire day in
the car clicking pictures and relaxing. Salalah is also a dry area like Muscat
but due to Indian monsoons it turns in to a green heaven.
Thankfully I was there right on time!!!
Day 8:
Salalah
being famous for frankincense, I decided to first visit frankincense museum. The
frankincense which is brought to baby Jesus in Nazareth is assumed to be from
Salalah as the tree that produces it, the Boswellia Sacra, grows nowhere
else.
Museum of the Frankincense Land:
This museum wasn't too big. I had limited time in hand and lots of
things to cover. Within two hours a detailed tour was done. The museum is
divided in to two exhibition halls - Maritime Hall and Historical Hall. Both
these halls are organized in an enchanting way with lots of models and
information regarding Frankincense trade. Photography was prohibited.
Adjacent
to Museum is the ancient port of Al-Baleed. All the ruins are carefully
preserved and labeled. It is the first archaeological museum I ever visited and
was touched by the story it unfolds. The former port, used to be surrounded by a trench and a defensive wall
with gates in the west, south and east sides. At the western end of the site
you can clearly make out the remains of the large court mosque. Originally
there were 148 pillars, which were laid in rows of four, surrounding an inner
courtyard. Al-Baleed is a UNESCO World Heritage site.
Marneef cave:
This is 47 kms from Salalah situated next to Al
Mughasayl beach. When I reached there, something more than a cave was waiting
for me. An impressive sea coast view, with fascinating blowholes (first time in
my life) and the mountain just above the marneef cave makes it all worth
the visit. However, I was expecting more from the cave but I was thrilled by
the first sight of blowholes. I walked up hill and the scene was picture perfect.
White sand sea, with blowholes like mini fountains made my day.
Day 9:
Earth gravity controversy:
I was
too intrigued by this topic and had done my homework right, before my trip to
Oman. This was one of the main reasons I had decided to stay for long in
Salalah. We took the road from Salalah to Mirbat, drove about 60 Kms and near
the sign board that read "11 Km Mirbat" & "63 Km
Salalah" we took a left and about half a km drive I felt supernatural.
There were no sign boards but my driver knew where to stop the car and change
the gear to neutral. Without any accelerator, car started moving up the road against
gravitational force. More like I was on a sci-fi movie. It was one of the best
experiences in Oman.
Wadi Darbat:
Salalah
is famous for its greenery and wadis with sub-tropical palm trees, lush
waterfalls and alluring mountain vistas. A river flows through here to the sea
at Khor Rawri. I wanted to spend an entire day there. After looking at the
deserted cities for so long, my eyes were bright with green. It was simply
gorgeous. Apart from waterfalls, lakes there were some beautiful caves. Many
cave chambers with old stalactites and stalagmites. At the end of the Wadi,
there is a cave which is considered to be the largest natural cave in Oman. I
was just speechless looking at the natural beauty that Oman was offering me. I
sat silently soaked in the beauty of nature.
Day 10:
My
flight to Muscat was scheduled at 1 pm. So I decided to enter the Salalah
Gardens mall and did some shopping (which I dislike) and left for airport.
Finally
when I reached Muscat I was sad that the trip had ended but there was so much
to see. Ten days’ time is too less to explore Oman. I badly wanted to visit
Masirah Island, Musandam peninsula, Sur, Ibra, and Muscat geosites and many
more. I was waiting to board my flight to India when the tired body was taken
over by sleep.
I heard
someone screaming, “Wake up, wake up. Why are you sleeping here?”
Oh god!
Did I miss my flight?
Nah! I
was at home and my husband was waking me up. The tour guide books were open, Laptop
was showing pictures of Oman, lots of scribbled papers were scattered and I was
sleeping amid the mess.
So was I
dreaming all along or had I just returned from Oman?
P.S: All the photos were downloaded from different sources via google.
This post was written as a part of IndiBlogger contest in association with the Ministry of Tourism of the Sultanate of Oman.